The Surprising History of Tiffany & Co.

American luxury jeweler Tiffany & Co. has become synonymous with elegance and prestige. Credited with making the prototype of engagement rings as we know them, the brand has deservedly earned its moniker, "The Diamond Kings." Just one glance at its signature Tiffany blue jewelry box is enough to elicit delight. And yet, there's more to the reputable jeweler than just its jewelry. Keep reading to learn about Tiffany & Co.'s nearly 200-year history, including some interesting and surprising facts.

The Modern Engagement Ring

Tiffany & Co. founder Charles Lewis Tiffany designed the first modern engagement ring back in 1886 when he introduced the Tiffany Setting. The original Tiffany Setting featured a solitaire diamond held above the band by six platinum prongs. “The prongs lifted the diamond off of the band and into the light,” explains Melvyn Kirtley, chief gemologist of Tiffany & Co. Lifting the diamond off the finger and letting the maximum light in produces maximum sparkle.

“Prior to the Tiffany Setting, most diamond rings were typically set much lower on the finger, and held in place by very short prongs or bezels, which were embedded within the band,” says Kirtley. In this setting, only the very top of the diamond, the crown, was visible — so less light got in, and you also couldn’t appreciate the size of the diamond.

Many diamond rings of this period also featured closed and foiled backs, where the backs of the diamonds were coated in a thin layer of reflective metal, and then sealed off. While these antique designs are beautiful, they’re tricky to wear now because getting them wet can damage or ruin the setting. Setting the diamond away from the finger and into the light not only maximizes the impact of the diamond, but it’s a much more practical, wearable setting.

You really can’t overstate what a huge innovation this is. For non-jewelry lovers, most people can at the very least picture an engagement ring — or what you’d see in the dictionary if you looked up the term. Before the Tiffany Setting, this didn’t really exist as such — sure, people were using diamond rings (though colored gemstones were also popular) as symbols of commitment, they were just all over the map in terms of look. But now the “Tiffany setting” is so ubiquitous within the industry that it’s used colloquially to describe any multi-pronged solitaire setting. It’s also the most sought-after engagement ring style in the world.

The First Mail-Order Catalog

Tiffany & Co.'s history — and its legacy — extends beyond the popular setting. Did you know that they were responsible for the first mail-order catalog in the U.S.? In 1845 the brand published The Catalogue of Useful and Fancy Articles, which sold everything from horse whips to French sugarplums.

Gemstone Discoveries

Gemologists from the jewelry house are also responsible for discovering or introducing many major gemstones to the market. Kunzite, which has a pink or lavender hue, was discovered in San Diego, CA in 1902 and was named for gemologist George Kunz, who discovered it. In 1920, Kunz also announced the discovery of morganite, a peachy pink stone, which was found in Madagascar. He named it after John Pierpont Morgan (as in, J.P. Morgan) “in recognition of the encouragement he has always extended to the arts and sciences.”

Tanzanite, a beautiful purple-blue stone, was introduced in 1968 and was named after Tanzania, where it was discovered. Tsavorite, a green stone, was discovered in 1970, and was named by Henry B. Platt, then president of Tiffany for Tsavo National Park near the border of Kenya and Tanzania, where it was discovered.

The jewelry house is also credited with championing stones, pearls, and metals mined and sourced locally in North America. Sapphires from Montana; tourmalines from Maine; local gold; and aquamarines, topaz, rose quartz, and zircon mined in Colorado were all made more popular thanks to Tiffany & Co.’s use.

"Great Seal of the United States”

And, you know that eagle emblem you see on the one-dollar bill? You can thank Tiffany designer James Horton Whitehouse for that. In 1877 he was approached by the U.S. Government to submit a Great Seal used to validate international U.S. government documents. His design was approved, and a version of it is now the official “Great Seal of the United States.”

Tiffany & Co. In Sports

Tiffany & Co. is also behind some of the most major sports moments, and serves as the manufacturer and designer for the NFL Vince Lombardi trophy (given at the Super Bowl), the MLB WS Championship trophy, and the NBA Larry O’Brien trophy, among others.

Historical Clients

Oh, and did you know Abraham Lincoln gifted Mary Todd a seed pearl brooch and necklace to commemorate his first inauguration? Because he did, and she was often photographed with it.

Tiffany & Co. Today

Today, the brand’s legacy continues and grows. It counts celebrities, jewelry enthusiasts, and the recently engaged among its clients. And with so many masterpieces to choose from, it's not hard to see why.

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